Reunion Island
A little cycling and a lot of walking on this annual journey, this time in the middle of the Indian Ocean.
Dos d’âne, then the Maïdo
11 juin
Trying to bike up Maïdo was one of the goals of my trip. But first, I wanted to tackle a training pass, and if I could manage that, then I’d give it a shot.
Tuesday, Dos d’âne A pass at an altitude of 1,045 m, starting from La Possession, fairly close to St-Denis. A tailwind made for easy riding along the main N1 road, then I started the climb. When I’m riding, I set little milestones in my head : a third of the way, halfway, just a quarter left… In this case, I measured them by elevation. (…)
The Three Pools
5 juin
They say that if you haven’t seen the three pools, you haven’t seen anything in Réunion !
So I set off from Saint-Denis to go see them. Access has technically been prohibited since the torrential rains of 2017 and due to “an imminent risk of landslides.”
By bypassing the “No Entry” signs, we manage to get through.
First up is the Cormorans Basin. It’s the largest basin, but with a rather unspectacular waterfall and water that looks murky. People stop by for a moment but don’t linger. (…)
From Bourg-Murat to Saint-André, then Saint-Denis
30 mai
On Saturday, I set out on a downhill journey that first takes me to La Plaine des Palmistes. I stop at a crafts village behind the Domaine des Tourelles, a historic estate once owned by a wealthy landowner who used to come here for a “change of scenery.” At 9 a.m., there aren’t many people around yet, and after visiting the only workshop already open—a sculpture studio—I cross the parking lot to head to the Réunion National Park Visitor Center : a small exhibition on the flora and fauna (…)
From Bourg-Murat to Pas des Sables
29 mai
A quiet little day. I want to revisit Pas des Sables. The weather is nicer than yesterday, but still very cloudy.
I’d seen that the elevation gain was reasonable, but I hadn’t really looked at the details. In the forest, there’s a long stretch at 9–10%... it’s a bit of a grind, but it’s very short.
While crossing the GR R2 [1], I run into Nicolas, one of the hikers who was at the lodge last night. He’s moving fast.
I grab a bite to eat at Pas des Sables, then head back down at a leisurely (…)
From Saint-Benoit to Bourg-Murat
28 mai
Not many miles today, but plenty of elevation gain.
I set off from Saint-Benoit as the last rain shower subsides. The sky remains overcast up in the hills, but it looks like it’s going to clear up. The climb is mostly dry. It’s not a particularly tough climb, but the slope is steady and there’s little respite.
I stop several times, at La Plaine des Palmiste to have a coffee and buy a sandwich. Then I stop in the final few hundred meters of the pass to eat it and regain some energy.
A (…)
From Saint-Philippe to Saint-Benoît
27 mai
I set off at dawn to reach the lava flow before the road closes—it’s open from 6:30 to 7:30 a.m. . A cyclist had told me it was completely flat… but with my two heavy panniers, the 200-meter elevation gain over the dozen or so kilometers really takes its toll. I arrive just before the road closes. At the other end of the construction zone, I’ll have to push the barrier open to get through… Excited, I try to record a video, but apparently I didn’t start it properly… no video ! I’ve been (…)
From Saint-Pierre to Saint-Philippe
26 mai
A short ride under a beautiful sun. I leave the house in Saint-Pierre to begin a tour of the island. It would only be 42 km to my lodging in Saint-Philippe, but I’m adding a few stops to extend the route.
First, Manapamy, and next to it, Ti Sable, a black-sand beach. Personally, I don’t think it’s any blacker than the one at Etang Salé les Bains. I have a hard time getting the shot I want because a couple of tourists in garish clothes are taking up all the space on this tiny beach. And in (…)
Cilaos
24 mai
We set off early Sunday morning for Cilaos. We drove up the road with its 200 hairpin turns, with still very little traffic. A little later, the road was closed due to an accident in a tunnel.
Cilaos, a cute little village. We stock up on sandwiches at the village’s very friendly bakery, grab a coffee, and set off on our planned loop : “The Loop and the Bras Rouge Waterfall from Cilaos.” We’ll shorten the loop a bit to take a shortcut via the road and get back to the car faster.
A very (…)
To the Garden of Flavors and Spices, then the Saint-Pierre Market
21 mai
On Thursday morning, I’m heading to the Jardin des Saveurs et des Épices. It’s about 40 kilometers to the garden, and I’m trying to get there quickly so I’ll be on time for the guided tour. The tour has just started, so I join in along the way. This garden is an agroforestry project, with plantations in the middle of the forest designed to preserve the ecosystem’s balance. The guide introduces a wide variety of plants along two or three paths around the shop. She mixes Creole into her (…)
Saga du Rhum, Kelonia and Stella Matutina
19 mai
Monday and Tuesday were spent on tours. I started on Monday with the Saga du Rhum, just a short walk from where we’re staying. It was an interesting tour where we learned about the history of rum and that of the Isautier family, one of the island’s three major rum-producing families. The two brothers who founded the distillery married the daughters of two landowners in order to acquire their land. They quickly specialized in producing flavored rums. If I recall correctly, the production of (…)