Serbian Hospitality: Belgrade - Bela Crkva

3 June 2019, kilometres today: 116
Kilometres since the start: 6009

A day with a rather complicated journey:

  • From Belgrade my route planned sent me on a road that did not exist. A little time wasted looking for the way to get on the bridge
  • In Panchevo I had to look for the Telecom agency. When I find it there are a lot of people waiting. I stand in line and when I start saying what I need, the girl nods... Only the colleague speaks English
  • Many of the tracks I have been on would have been correct in dry weather, but with the humidity it is unbearable.

In Panchevo I visit the Telnor shop. I had taken an MTS sim card three days ago but it was impossible to recharge it... So I come back to my first idea and when the guy from the shop explains to me I find that if I had been with them first I wouldn’t have needed anything more, except for the communications abroad which are very expensive. Quick comparison:

  • MTS 600 Serbian dinars, 4 GB, no local phone call, valid for 3 days
  • Telnor: 500 Serbian dinars, 5 GB, local communication up to 2500 dinars, valid for 30 days...
    It’s no big deal....

I’m looking for a place to have lunch around noon. I ask in a café they try to explain to me where the nearest restaurant is... I can’t find it. So I eat my few victuals ^^

The road, on the levee, is very difficult: soaked I spend my time trying to avoid the ruts.... Sometimes I drive on the grass nearby: that’s where I’m happy to have great tires.

I spend my time rolling my rain jacket on my saddlebags, then putting it back on.

I make a small detour through the center of Konvi to take a break in a coffee shop. I take a double espresso and a large orange juice for 180 Serbian Dinars (1.50€, place du Capitole we wouldn’t even have the espresso for this price...).

I’m leaving invigorated, and the weather is fine too! The track is a little better during the first kilometers, everything is fine!

When I arrived near my accommodation I continued on Stara Palanka, on the banks of the Danube, because I had seen the name in the description... I’m a few miles too far!!! And what miles! On the dike along the DTD channel at least three are on wet grass. Exhausting. I get stuck and have to get down to earth.

I finally get to my destination. While I’m looking for the numbers, Sylvana, my hostess tonight, comes to meet me! Arrived and very happy, it is already 7pm!
Jovica helps me put my bike away and get my stuff up. And immediately Jovica and Sylvana ask me to have a beer... and I may be hungry...

Jovica & Sylvana

Then we have a beer on the terrace with Aleksa, the son of Jovica and Sylvana. We exchange on many things and they give me advice for the rest of my trip.
This evening was an excellent surprise and a beautiful demonstration of Serbian hospitality.


  • Departure from Belgrade, no sidewalk before this very moving bridge
  • Leaving Belgrade
  • The cycle path from Belgrade
  • A Eurovelo bridge!!!
  • A Eurovelo bridge!!!
  • The track shortly after this bridge
  • The marsh along the Danube
  • Finally I joined the road that was nearby.
  • After Panchevo at the start the track is a little better
  • Attempting to take the birds by telephoto lens
  • Attempting to take the birds by telephoto lens
  • Attempting to take the birds by telephoto lens
  • From the marsh to the Danube
  • At the telephoto lens just before it took off
  • Herd
  • Herd and shepherd
  • Shepherd with bike, without dogs
  • Herd
  • Herd
  • Herd
  • Herd
  • A Danube workboat
  • The track, here wide for trucks....
  • The track
  • Danube
  • Fisherman
  • Danube
  • Danube
  • Jovica & Sylvana
  • A beer with Jovica and Aleksa
     

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